This installation is not for novices. If you've never modded anything before in your life, don't make the Viking your first mod.
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Materials list:
Sleeper configuration

Many thanks to GAMEROMS for this diagram.
Duo configuration

Many thanks to GAMEROMS for this diagram.
You can click on any photo at any time to get the hi-resolution screen shot.
Hint: I use a razorblade. Takes a steady hand. A magnifiying glass or magnifying lamp, or magnification headset, probably wouldn't hurt here. Some people prefer to expose the 'via hole' and solder right onto the via hole - in most cases, for me anyway, I can never get the wire to stick. I personally have much more luck soldering directly onto the exposed traces.
Process for soldering onto traces during this tutorial:
Photo of an exposed trace (just after scraping) vs. a 'tinned' trace (just after first application of flux n' solder):
Again, it is much much much easier to get your 30 AWG wire-wrap wire to 'stick' to the trace if you pre-tin the trace using flux, then clean and apply fresh flux before soldering on the wire.
Ok, we'll rip through the next sets of slides. These all just show the different points you'll need to solder to, as well as the place I personally prefer to run my wires, and why.

Hint: Hitting the center peg of SW10 can be difficult. I like to put a dab of fresh paste flux on the center peg (if some spills over to the other two pegs, don't worry). Put a dab of fresh solder on your iron. Then I line up the wire with a pair of tweezers. I hold the wire to the center peg, while I try to hit both the wire and the center peg with my soldering iron at the same time:

In fact if you haven't realized by now, flux is your best friend, and will help you make a reat solder connection every time.
There are more detailed pics below, with more description, but for those of you who don't need all the extra words, here's a pic of the next 6 points we need to solder... (notice the 6 'copper' shiny traces that have been scraped back):

Almost done:

Now you must choose between Play n' Charge modification, or 3.5mm jack installation. PnC is much easier to install, but disables your Play N' Charge port except for programming the controller. 3.5mm jack is harder to install, but keeps your Play N' Charge functioning as normal.
Play n' charge modification requires that you cut two traces, and solder two more wires from the PnC port to the mod chip.
The 3.5mm jack options requires you to solder three wires from the mod chip to the 3.5mm jack.
One possible location to drill for the 3.5mm jack. 1/4" drill bit. We use hot glue to glue the jack into place. You have to make sure the jack doesn't 'ram' into the rumble pads when you close up the controller so take your time and drill exactly as shown below.

Close up the controller. Flash the mod chip with the Sleeper button test code, then test all the buttons to make sure they are working properly.